A bush bean plant growing in a raised bed
How to grow

Bush beans

Frost-tender. Sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow in fall 10 to 12 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 50 to 60 days from sowing.

Photo: “-2020-07-20 Phaseolus vulgaris (Bobby Beans), Trimingham, Norfolk” by Kolforn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 2–4 in apartRows 18–36 in
  • 50–60 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 60 °F +pH 5.8–7.0
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • Frost-tenderKilled at 32 °F

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest bush beans where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. VinesRunners spread outWeek 3–4
  4. FlowersFlowers openWeek 5–7
  5. PodsPods fill outWeek 6–8
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 7–9

How to plant and grow

  1. Wait for warm soil

    Sow after the last frost once soil is 60 °F or warmer. Seed sown into cold, wet soil tends to rot instead of sprouting.

  2. Sow the seed

    Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 18 to 36 inches apart. Thick stands usually need no thinning.

  3. Sow every two weeks

    Bush beans bear most of their crop at once. Sow a new row every 2 weeks into midsummer for a steady supply.

  4. Water at bloom

    Aim for about 1 inch of water a week. Steady moisture matters most while plants flower and pods fill. Water early in the day.

  5. Pick often

    Pods are ready about 1 to 2 weeks after flowering. Pick before seeds bulge, every day or two, to keep plants producing.

Common problems

A Mexican bean beetle on a bean leaf it has skeletonised
Photo: Stephen Ausmus, USDA ARS, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Mexican bean beetlePest

What you'll see: Copper-colored beetles with black spots and spiny yellow larvae feed under bean leaves, leaving lacy skeletons.

Prevent

  • Use row cover on beans.
  • Remove bean plants right after harvest.
  • Reflective or white plastic mulch lowers beetle numbers.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick beetles, and crush yellow egg clusters and larvae.
  • Release the parasitic wasp Pediobius foveolatus when eggs start to hatch.
  • Kaolin clay on young plants deters feeding.

Conventional options

  • Several garden insecticides are labeled for beans; check the label lists Mexican bean beetle.
A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Bean leaves dusted with rust pustules
Photo: “Uromyces appendiculatus a1 (1)” by Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Bean rustDisease

What you'll see: Small rusty-brown, powdery bumps on leaf undersides, often ringed in yellow. Badly hit leaves dry up and fall.

Prevent

  • Plant beans in a new spot each year.
  • Water at the base; splashing water spreads the spores.
  • Clear bean plants after harvest and do not compost diseased ones.
  • Grow resistant varieties where offered.

Organic options

  • Sulfur, started when spots first appear. Do not use it close in time to an oil spray.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or myclobutanil, if beans are on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A greasy grey-brown black cutworm caterpillar
Photo: USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

CutwormsPestSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Young plants are cut off at or just above the soil overnight. Fat gray or brown caterpillars curl into a C shape in the soil nearby.

Prevent

  • Put a cardboard or foil collar around each transplant, pushed a few inches into the soil.
  • Till the bed before planting, and pull weeds.
  • Keep a strip of bare, dry soil along the garden edge.

Organic options

  • Dig gently around cut plants and destroy the caterpillars.

Conventional options

  • Usually not needed in a home garden. Collars work better than sprays.

Root rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants yellow, wilt and die back even though the soil is wet. Roots are brown, soft and few, and bean seedlings may rot at the soil line.

Prevent

  • Plant in well-drained soil; grow raspberries on beds raised about a foot.
  • Do not overwater.
  • Plant beans and peas in a new spot each year, and sow them only once the soil has warmed.
  • Start with healthy plants, and do not move soil from a sick bed to a healthy one.

Organic options

  • Remove and dispose of dying plants and clear crop debris after harvest.

Conventional options

  • None. Fungicides have not proven effective in home gardens; drainage is the fix.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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