A white cauliflower head inside its leaves on the plant
How to grow

Cauliflower

Takes a light frost. Start indoors 7 to 10 weeks before your last frost; plant out 1 to 3 weeks before your last frost; sow outdoors 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; plant in fall 7 to 10 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 50 to 80 days from planting.

Photo: “Cauliflower at Eastfield Farm - geograph.org.uk - 8196861” by Hugh Venables, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 12–18 in apartRows 24–36 in
  • 50–80 daysFrom planting out
  • Soil 40 °F +pH 5.8–7.2
  • 1–2 in a weekEven watering
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest cauliflower where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1
  3. Plant outSet out transplantsWeek 6–8
  4. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 8–10
  5. Head formsHeads start to formWeek 11–14
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 14–19

How to plant and grow

  1. Start indoors

    Sow seed indoors 7 to 10 weeks before last frost. Young plants need 6 to 8 weeks to reach transplant size.

  2. Plant out

    Set out 1 to 3 weeks before last frost, 12 to 18 inches apart. Long cold spells below 50 °F can make small plants form tiny heads early.

  3. Keep growing

    Water 1 to 2 inches a week and avoid any check in growth. Stress leads to small or loose heads.

  4. Blanch the head

    When the head is a few inches across, tie outer leaves over it to keep it white, unless the variety covers itself.

  5. Try a fall crop

    Set out transplants 7 to 10 weeks before first fall frost. Cool fall weather often gives the best heads.

  6. Harvest promptly

    Cut heads when firm and smooth, about 6 inches across, before the curds start to separate.

Common problems

A cabbage leaf with a yellow-brown V-shaped black rot lesion at its edge
Photo: Scot Nelson, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Black rotDisease

What you'll see: On cabbage-family crops, yellow V-shaped patches grow in from the leaf edges and the veins turn black. On sweet potatoes, firm, dark, sunken patches form on the roots, often found in storage.

Prevent

  • For cabbage-family crops, use certified or hot-water-treated seed and healthy transplants.
  • Keep cabbage-family crops out of a bed for 2 to 3 years, and control weeds.
  • For sweet potatoes, grow slips only from clean roots and cure the roots before storing.

Organic options

  • Pull and destroy infected plants and roots.
  • On cabbage-family crops, copper may slow spread while disease is light. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray cures black rot, and none helps stored sweet potatoes.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A velvety green imported cabbageworm caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Pieris rapae - larva 01 (HS)” by Harald Süpfle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Imported cabbagewormPest

What you'll see: Velvety green caterpillars chew holes in leaves and bore into heads, leaving dark green droppings. White butterflies flutter over the bed.

Prevent

  • Cover plants with row cover from planting.
  • Check leaves each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A pale green cabbage looper caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Cabbage looper caterpillar” by Lua Eva Blue, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Cabbage looperPest

What you'll see: Pale green caterpillars that arch their backs as they crawl chew ragged holes in leaves.

Prevent

  • Cover young plants with row cover.
  • Check leaf undersides each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A striped flea beetle on the edge of a leaf
Photo: “Phyllotreta striolata P1210443a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Flea beetlesPest

What you'll see: Many tiny round holes and pits in leaves, as if hit by buckshot. Tiny dark beetles jump when disturbed.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges.
  • Plant a little later, so warm weather carries plants through the damage.
  • Sow radish ahead of the main crop as a trap crop.
  • Clear weeds and old crop debris.

Organic options

  • Spinosad, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Carbaryl, malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. Older plants seldom need treatment.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A cucumber leaf with yellow angular patches from downy mildew
Photo: “Pseudoperonospora cubensis 147541352” by blastcat, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Downy mildewDisease

What you'll see: Yellow patches on top of leaves, often boxed in by the veins, with gray to purple fuzz underneath; on shallots, whitish-gray growth on older leaves. Leaves brown and die, worst in cool, wet weather.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties; basil sold as downy mildew resistant holds up far better.
  • Space plants, trellis vines and water at the base so leaves dry fast.
  • Remove and destroy infected plants promptly.

Organic options

  • Copper protects cucumber and melon leaves best when used before the disease arrives. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or mancozeb on vine crops, if labeled. On basil, home-garden sprays work poorly; grow resistant varieties.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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