A celery plant growing in a vegetable garden bed
How to grow

Celery

Takes a light frost. Start indoors 10 to 12 weeks before your last frost; plant out up to 2 weeks before your last frost. First harvest 70 to 89 days from planting.

Photo: “Apium graveolens var. dulce, habit in veggie garden” by Forest and Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0 US, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 6–24 in apartRows 18–24 in
  • 70–89 daysFrom planting out
  • pH 6.0–7.0Soil pH
  • 1–2 in a weekEven watering
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest celery where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 2–3
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 4–6
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 8–12
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 12–16
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 18–25

How to plant and grow

  1. Start seeds early

    Sow seed indoors 10 to 12 weeks before your last frost. The seed is tiny and slow, taking 1 to 3 weeks to sprout, so keep it evenly moist.

  2. Keep seedlings warm

    Hold seedlings above 55 °F. Ten days or more below about 40 °F can make young plants bolt to seed later in the season.

  3. Set out near last frost

    Plant out from about 2 weeks before your last frost to just after it. Cover young plants if a hard frost threatens.

  4. Space the plants

    Set plants 6 to 12 inches apart, or up to 24 inches for large plants, in rows about 18 to 24 inches apart.

  5. Water often

    Give 1 to 2 inches of water a week, more in hot spells. Celery roots are shallow, and dry soil makes stalks tough and stringy.

  6. Harvest stalks

    Cut outer stalks once they are about a foot long, or cut the whole plant at the base once it is about 3 inches across.

Common problems

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A pale green cabbage looper caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Cabbage looper caterpillar” by Lua Eva Blue, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Cabbage looperPest

What you'll see: Pale green caterpillars that arch their backs as they crawl chew ragged holes in leaves.

Prevent

  • Cover young plants with row cover.
  • Check leaf undersides each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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