Collard green plants growing in a terraced garden row
How to grow

Collard greens

Takes a hard frost. Start indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost; plant out 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow outdoors up to 2 weeks before your last frost; sow in fall 11 to 13 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 40 to 80 days from sowing.

Photo: USDA, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 6–18 in apartRows 18–36 in
  • 40–80 daysFrom sowing
  • pH 5.7–6.7Soil pH
  • HardyTakes a hard frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest collard greens where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1
  3. Plant outSet out transplantsWeek 3–5
  4. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 4–6
  5. Head formsHeads start to formWeek 5–7
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 6–11

How to plant and grow

  1. Start transplants

    For spring, start seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before you plan to set plants out. Seed sown outdoors in cold spring soil is slow.

  2. Sow shallow

    Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Deeper seed may not come up. Thin to the final stand at the three-leaf stage.

  3. Space plants

    Leave 6 to 18 inches between plants in rows 18 to 36 inches apart. Wider spacing gives bigger plants.

  4. Keep soil moist

    Water early in the day so soil stays evenly moist 6 inches down, especially at setting out and near harvest.

  5. Sow for fall

    Direct seed in midsummer, about 11 to 13 weeks before first fall frost. Mature plants handle frost and light freezes.

  6. Pick lower leaves

    Take a few lower leaves at a time, working up the stem, or cut the whole plant when half or fully grown.

Common problems

A velvety green imported cabbageworm caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Pieris rapae - larva 01 (HS)” by Harald Süpfle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Imported cabbagewormPest

What you'll see: Velvety green caterpillars chew holes in leaves and bore into heads, leaving dark green droppings. White butterflies flutter over the bed.

Prevent

  • Cover plants with row cover from planting.
  • Check leaves each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A pale green cabbage looper caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Cabbage looper caterpillar” by Lua Eva Blue, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Cabbage looperPest

What you'll see: Pale green caterpillars that arch their backs as they crawl chew ragged holes in leaves.

Prevent

  • Cover young plants with row cover.
  • Check leaf undersides each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A small grey-brown diamondback moth resting on a leaf
Photo: “CSIRO ScienceImage 1144 Diamond back moth Plutella xylostella” by David McClenaghan, CSIRO, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Diamondback mothPest

What you'll see: Small green caterpillars that wriggle hard and drop on a silk thread when touched chew small holes in leaves, often from underneath.

Prevent

  • Use row cover on young plants.
  • Clear cabbage-family debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A harlequin bug adult and nymph, black with orange markings, on a leaf
Photo: “Harlequin Bug adult and nymph” by Linda Tanner, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Harlequin bugPest

What you'll see: Shield-shaped black bugs with red or orange markings suck sap, leaving white blotches. Leaves wilt and brown.

Prevent

  • Use row cover on young plants.
  • Remove crop debris in fall, where adults spend the winter.
  • Grow cleome nearby as a trap crop.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick bugs and crush the barrel-shaped egg clusters.
  • Insecticidal soap or neem oil on young nymphs, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Permethrin, if the crop is on the label. Adults are hard to kill.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A cabbage leaf with a yellow-brown V-shaped black rot lesion at its edge
Photo: Scot Nelson, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Black rotDisease

What you'll see: On cabbage-family crops, yellow V-shaped patches grow in from the leaf edges and the veins turn black. On sweet potatoes, firm, dark, sunken patches form on the roots, often found in storage.

Prevent

  • For cabbage-family crops, use certified or hot-water-treated seed and healthy transplants.
  • Keep cabbage-family crops out of a bed for 2 to 3 years, and control weeds.
  • For sweet potatoes, grow slips only from clean roots and cure the roots before storing.

Organic options

  • Pull and destroy infected plants and roots.
  • On cabbage-family crops, copper may slow spread while disease is light. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray cures black rot, and none helps stored sweet potatoes.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A cucumber leaf with yellow angular patches from downy mildew
Photo: “Pseudoperonospora cubensis 147541352” by blastcat, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Downy mildewDisease

What you'll see: Yellow patches on top of leaves, often boxed in by the veins, with gray to purple fuzz underneath; on shallots, whitish-gray growth on older leaves. Leaves brown and die, worst in cool, wet weather.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties; basil sold as downy mildew resistant holds up far better.
  • Space plants, trellis vines and water at the base so leaves dry fast.
  • Remove and destroy infected plants promptly.

Organic options

  • Copper protects cucumber and melon leaves best when used before the disease arrives. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or mancozeb on vine crops, if labeled. On basil, home-garden sprays work poorly; grow resistant varieties.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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