A green cucumber growing on the vine at soil level
How to grow

Cucumbers

Frost-tender. Start indoors 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost; plant out 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow in fall 11 to 12 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 50 to 70 days from sowing.

Photo: “Cucumis sativus Olimp F1 2023-06-29 8180” by Salicyna, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 8–12 in apartRows 3–6 ft
  • 50–70 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 70 °F +pH 6.0–6.5
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • Frost-tenderKilled at 32 °F

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest cucumbers where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. VinesRunners spread outWeek 3–4
  4. FlowersFlowers openWeek 5–6
  5. Fruit setsSmall fruit formsWeek 6–7
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 7–10

How to plant and grow

  1. Sow in warm soil

    Sow seeds about 1/2 inch deep after the last frost, once soil is near 70 °F. Seed will not sprout in soil below 50 °F.

  2. Or start a few indoors

    Start seeds in pots no more than about 4 weeks ahead. Roots bruise easily, so move them gently with the root ball intact.

  3. Thin and trellis

    Thin plants to 8 to 12 inches apart. A trellis 3 to 6 feet tall saves space and keeps fruit straight and clean.

  4. Water every week

    Give about an inch of water a week. Sandy soil needs smaller, more frequent watering. Dry spells and big temperature swings can make fruit bitter.

  5. Let bees in

    If you use row covers, take them off when flowers open so bees can pollinate. The first flowers are male and will not set fruit.

  6. Pick often

    Harvest pickling types at 2 to 6 inches and slicers at 6 to 10 inches. Pick every day or two so the vines keep producing.

Common problems

A striped cucumber beetle, yellow with black stripes
Photo: “Acalymma vittatum P1310371a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Cucumber beetlesPest

What you'll see: Yellow beetles with black stripes or spots chew seedlings, leaves and flowers. They spread bacterial wilt, which kills cucumbers and melons.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges; remove it at flowering so bees can reach the blooms.
  • Clear weeds and plant debris where adults spend the winter.
  • Mulch with straw around established plants.

Organic options

  • Knock beetles into soapy water on small plantings.
  • Kaolin clay on the leaves deters feeding but does not kill beetles; apply it before damage builds.

Conventional options

  • Several garden insecticides are labeled for cucumber beetles; check the crop is listed. Spray early or late in the day to spare bees.
Melon plants pulled up after collapsing from bacterial wilt
Photo: Scot Nelson, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Bacterial wiltDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Leaves wilt in the sun, perk up overnight, then wilt for good, and the whole vine dies. Cucumber beetles carry the bacteria from plant to plant.

Prevent

  • Keep cucumber beetles off young plants with row cover until flowering.
  • Grow cucumber varieties sold as resistant.
  • Pull wilted plants promptly.

Organic options

  • Control cucumber beetles early in the season; that is what protects the plants.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray cures bacterial wilt once a plant has it.
A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A cucumber leaf with yellow angular patches from downy mildew
Photo: “Pseudoperonospora cubensis 147541352” by blastcat, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Downy mildewDisease

What you'll see: Yellow patches on top of leaves, often boxed in by the veins, with gray to purple fuzz underneath; on shallots, whitish-gray growth on older leaves. Leaves brown and die, worst in cool, wet weather.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties; basil sold as downy mildew resistant holds up far better.
  • Space plants, trellis vines and water at the base so leaves dry fast.
  • Remove and destroy infected plants promptly.

Organic options

  • Copper protects cucumber and melon leaves best when used before the disease arrives. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or mancozeb on vine crops, if labeled. On basil, home-garden sprays work poorly; grow resistant varieties.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A winter squash fruit pitted with sunken anthracnose spots
Photo: Scot Nelson from Honolulu, USA, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

AnthracnoseDisease

What you'll see: Sunken spots: tan to dark brown on cucumber and melon leaves and fruit, small purple-edged spots on raspberry canes. In wet weather the spots can ooze pink spore masses.

Prevent

  • Grow vine crops in a new bed each year and clear plant debris after harvest.
  • Water at the base, not overhead, so leaves stay dry.
  • Thin raspberry canes in winter for air flow and destroy the prunings.

Organic options

  • Remove spotted leaves, fruit and canes.
  • Copper fungicide, started when spots first appear in wet weather. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil on vine crops, if the crop is on the label. It protects leaves best before the disease takes hold.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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