White dahlia flowers in full bloom in a garden
How to grow

Dahlias

Frost-tender. A perennial for zones 7 to 10. Start indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost; plant out 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost. First blooms 60 to 90 days from planting.

Photo: “Anglesey Abbey, Dahlia Garden, Dahlia 5 - geograph.org.uk - 6298636” by Michael Garlick, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 12–36 in apart
  • 60–90 daysTo first bloom
  • Soil 60 °F +pH 6.5–7.0
  • Frost-tenderKilled at 32 °F
  • Zones 7–10Comes back each year

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest dahlias where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. PlantSet in the groundWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 2–3
  3. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 3–5
  4. BudsFlower buds showWeek 7–10
  5. BloomIn full flowerWeek 9–13
  6. LiftDig and storeWeek 17–26

How to plant and grow

  1. Plant in warm soil

    Plant tubers in late spring once the soil holds near 60 °F. Lay each tuber on its side with the eye up, 4 to 6 inches deep, shallower for short types.

  2. Space and stake

    Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart depending on size. Push in a stake at planting for tall types so you do not spear the tuber later.

  3. Keep evenly moist

    Water at the roots, early in the day, to keep soil moist but never soggy. Letting the bed dry out cuts flowering.

  4. Deadhead blooms

    Cut flowers often and remove spent blooms. Plants flower from midsummer until frost. Stop feeding in late summer so tubers firm up.

  5. Lift after frost

    Where winters freeze, dig after frost blackens the tops and at least 120 days after planting. Dig a foot out from the stem to avoid breaking necks.

  6. Cure and store

    Rinse off soil, dry a few days in shade, then pack in slightly damp vermiculite or shavings. Store dark and frost-free at about 35 to 50 °F and check monthly.

  7. Or leave in ground

    In zone 7 and warmer with good drainage, cut stems and mulch at least 4 inches deep instead of lifting.

Common problems

A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A European earwig on a sunflower head
Photo: “European earwig on a sunflower” by Patrick.lynch, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

EarwigsPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: Ragged holes in petals and leaves, chewed at night. Brown insects with pincers at the tail hide in tight spots by day.

Prevent

  • Clear boards, leaf litter and debris where they hide.
  • Check plants with a flashlight at night to be sure earwigs are the cause; they also eat aphids.

Organic options

  • Trap them in rolled newspaper or short pieces of hose set near plants at dusk, and shake them into soapy water each morning.

Conventional options

  • None recommended for dahlias. Trapping is the control.
A grey field slug crawling on rotten wood
Photo: “Deroceras reticulatum” by Bruce Marlin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

SlugsPest

What you'll see: Ragged holes in leaves and fruit, and shiny slime trails, mostly after damp nights.

Prevent

  • Clear mulch and leaf litter close to plants so the ground can dry.
  • Start early; do not wait for a heavy infestation.

Organic options

  • Sink shallow containers of beer to the rim; empty and refill them often.
  • Iron phosphate bait scattered on the soil around plants. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: iron phosphate bait is the pick for food gardens, being far less harmful to pets and wildlife.
A meadow vole among clover and stones
Photo: “Microtus pennsylvanicus 422200318” by Todd Boland, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

VolesPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: Tubers and roots are eaten from below, plants wilt or vanish, and narrow runways show in grass or mulch.

Prevent

  • Plant tubers in cages of quarter-inch hardware cloth.
  • Keep grass short and mulch thin near beds.
  • Clear dense, weedy cover.

Organic options

  • Set mouse snap traps in the runways.

Conventional options

  • None recommended here. Repellents have given mixed results.
A striped cucumber beetle, yellow with black stripes
Photo: “Acalymma vittatum P1310371a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Cucumber beetlesPest

What you'll see: Yellow beetles with black stripes or spots chew seedlings, leaves and flowers. They spread bacterial wilt, which kills cucumbers and melons.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges; remove it at flowering so bees can reach the blooms.
  • Clear weeds and plant debris where adults spend the winter.
  • Mulch with straw around established plants.

Organic options

  • Knock beetles into soapy water on small plantings.
  • Kaolin clay on the leaves deters feeding but does not kill beetles; apply it before damage builds.

Conventional options

  • Several garden insecticides are labeled for cucumber beetles; check the crop is listed. Spray early or late in the day to spare bees.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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