Broad-leaved endive (escarole) heads growing in a garden
How to grow

Endive

Takes a light frost. Start indoors 6 to 12 weeks before your last frost; plant out 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow outdoors 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow in fall 12 to 14 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 85 to 98 days from sowing.

Photo: “Cichorium endivia J1” by Jamain, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 8–12 in apartRows 18–24 in
  • 85–98 daysFrom sowing
  • pH 5.5–7.0Soil pH
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest endive where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 2–4
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 4–8
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 6–10
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 12–14

How to plant and grow

  1. Grow it cool

    Endive and escarole turn bitter in heat. Grow them as an early spring crop or, better, a fall crop that matures in cool weather.

  2. Start or sow early

    Start seed indoors 6 to 12 weeks before your last frost, or sow 1/4 inch deep outdoors 2 to 4 weeks before it.

  3. Space the plants

    Set out transplants 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost. Thin or space plants 8 to 12 inches apart in rows 18 to 24 inches apart.

  4. Water evenly

    Give about 1 inch of water a week, more in hot spells. Steady moisture keeps leaves tender.

  5. Blanch the hearts

    Once leaves are large, tie the outer leaves over the center for 2 to 3 weeks. Tie only when plants are dry, or the hearts can rot.

  6. Sow for fall

    Sow again about 3 months before your first fall frost. Plants take frost and can be cut into early winter.

Common problems

A grey field slug crawling on rotten wood
Photo: “Deroceras reticulatum” by Bruce Marlin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

SlugsPest

What you'll see: Ragged holes in leaves and fruit, and shiny slime trails, mostly after damp nights.

Prevent

  • Clear mulch and leaf litter close to plants so the ground can dry.
  • Start early; do not wait for a heavy infestation.

Organic options

  • Sink shallow containers of beer to the rim; empty and refill them often.
  • Iron phosphate bait scattered on the soil around plants. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: iron phosphate bait is the pick for food gardens, being far less harmful to pets and wildlife.
A greasy grey-brown black cutworm caterpillar
Photo: USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

CutwormsPestSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Young plants are cut off at or just above the soil overnight. Fat gray or brown caterpillars curl into a C shape in the soil nearby.

Prevent

  • Put a cardboard or foil collar around each transplant, pushed a few inches into the soil.
  • Till the bed before planting, and pull weeds.
  • Keep a strip of bare, dry soil along the garden edge.

Organic options

  • Dig gently around cut plants and destroy the caterpillars.

Conventional options

  • Usually not needed in a home garden. Collars work better than sprays.
A striped flea beetle on the edge of a leaf
Photo: “Phyllotreta striolata P1210443a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Flea beetlesPest

What you'll see: Many tiny round holes and pits in leaves, as if hit by buckshot. Tiny dark beetles jump when disturbed.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges.
  • Plant a little later, so warm weather carries plants through the damage.
  • Sow radish ahead of the main crop as a trap crop.
  • Clear weeds and old crop debris.

Organic options

  • Spinosad, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Carbaryl, malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. Older plants seldom need treatment.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A stunted carrot plant with a yellow, bunched witches'-broom top from aster yellows
Photo: “Aster yellows symptoms carrot 2” by Whitney Cranshaw, CC BY 3.0 US, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Aster yellowsDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: New leaves yellow and twist, and plants stay stunted with a tuft of thin shoots. Carrot roots turn small, hairy and bitter.

Prevent

  • Pull weeds such as wild carrot, chicory and dandelion that carry the disease.
  • Cover young plants with row cover to keep the leafhoppers that spread it off them.
  • Grow varieties sold as resistant or tolerant, where offered.

Organic options

  • Remove and destroy infected plants as soon as you see them.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray cures an infected plant.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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