A dense planting of leeks with their flat blue-green leaves
How to grow

Leeks

Takes a hard frost. Start indoors 8 to 12 weeks before your last frost; plant out 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow outdoors 3 weeks before your last frost. First harvest 70 to 120 days from planting.

Photo: “Allium porrum Poireaux2010 09 12 1” by Lamiot, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 2–6 in apartRows 8–36 in
  • 70–120 daysFrom planting out
  • Soil 40 °F +pH 6.0–7.0
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • HardyTakes a hard frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest leeks where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. PlantSet in the groundWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 3–6
  4. Bulb swellsBulbs fattenWeek 10–14
  5. Tops fallLeaves flop and yellowWeek 12–16
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 14–21

How to plant and grow

  1. Start seeds indoors

    Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep about 8 to 12 weeks before your last frost. Seed sprouts best at 75 to 85 °F, usually in 1 to 2 weeks.

  2. Set out before last frost

    Harden seedlings off for about a week, then plant them out 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost. Leeks handle cold well.

  3. Plant deep to blanch

    Set each plant in a hole or trench about 6 inches deep, 2 to 6 inches apart. Fill in or mound soil as they grow for long white stems.

  4. Or sow outdoors

    Seed can go in the garden about 3 weeks before the last frost. Thin to 4 to 6 inches apart. Direct-sown leeks are slower to size up.

  5. Water and weed

    Give about 1 inch of water a week and keep weeds pulled, since shallow leek roots compete poorly. Mulch holds moisture.

  6. Harvest into winter

    Dig leeks once stems are about 1 inch thick. Frost does not hurt them, so harvest can run into late fall; heavy mulch helps them overwinter in mild areas.

Common problems

Onion thripsPest

What you'll see: Silvery streaks and blotches on leaves, with tiny black specks. The tiny, slender insects hide deep in the neck.

Prevent

  • Control weeds and remove onion culls and debris.
  • Overhead watering or heavy rain knocks numbers down.

Organic options

  • Insecticidal soap or spinosad, aimed down into the neck. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Several insecticides are labeled; check the crop is listed. Thrips grow resistant when one product is used over and over.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

White onion maggots feeding inside a split leek stem
Photo: “Delia antiqua maggots at Allium porrum , uienvlieg maden op prei (1)” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Onion maggotPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: Young onions, garlic, leeks, shallots and chives wilt and yellow. Small white maggots tunnel in the bulb or stem, which may rot.

Prevent

  • Cover rows with row cover at planting, and bury the edges.
  • Plant far from last year's onions, and never cover ground that had maggots.
  • Remove culled onions and debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Pull and destroy infested plants with the maggots in them.

Conventional options

  • None for home gardens. No insecticide is available to treat the soil before planting.
Orange rust pustules covering the underside of a mint leaf
Photo: “Puccinia menthae a1 (2)” by Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

RustDisease

What you'll see: Orange to rusty-brown powdery bumps on leaves and stems, turning black late in the season. Badly hit plants yellow and drop leaves.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Clear and destroy infected tops and debris after harvest, including asparagus ferns in fall, and remove wild asparagus nearby.
  • Water at the base and avoid crowding.

Organic options

  • Sulfur, started when rust first shows.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A shiny, segmented wireworm larva on soil
Photo: “Wireworm - Flickr - treegrow (1)” by Katja Schulz from Washington, D. C., USA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

WirewormsPestSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Thin, shiny, yellow-brown larvae bore narrow holes into potatoes, roots and seeds. Seedlings may wilt.

Prevent

  • Expect them in beds newly made from lawn or sod.
  • Bury chunks of potato as bait, dig them up after about a week, and destroy the larvae.
  • Rotate crops.

Organic options

  • Bait with potato or carrot pieces, and check and destroy the catch often.

Conventional options

  • Insecticides worked into the soil before planting are an option only where wireworms have been a serious problem; most are farm products.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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