Okra pods growing upright on the plant against a blue sky
How to grow

Okra

Warm-season and frost-tender. Sow outdoors 2 to 4 weeks after your last frost. First harvest 50 to 70 days from sowing.

Photo: Wilfredor, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 9–24 in apartRows 3–6 ft
  • 50–70 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 65 °F +pH 5.8–6.8
  • 1–1½ in a weekEven watering
  • Frost-tenderHurt by frost and cold wind

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest okra where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. Plant outSet out transplantsWeek 3–4
  4. FlowersFlowers openWeek 6–8
  5. Fruit setsSmall fruit formsWeek 7–9
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 8–10

How to plant and grow

  1. Wait for hot soil

    Sow outdoors only after the soil is at least 65 °F at 4 inches deep. Okra rots or sits idle in cool, wet ground.

  2. Sow and thin

    Plant seeds about 3/4 to 1 inch deep. When seedlings are up, thin to one strong plant every 9 to 24 inches in rows 3 to 6 feet apart.

  3. Feed and mulch

    Side-dress with a little fertilizer a few weeks after planting and again a few weeks later. A 2 to 3 inch mulch keeps moisture steady.

  4. Water in dry spells

    During long dry periods, soak the soil deeply about once a week. Moisture matters most while pods are setting.

  5. Pick pods small

    Harvest pods at 2 to 3 inches long, every day or two. Pods turn tough fast, and leaving them on slows new pod production.

Common problems

Tomato roots swollen with root-knot nematode galls
Photo: Plant pests and diseases, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Root-knot nematodesPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants are stunted and wilt in the heat. Roots have knobby swellings, and carrots may fork.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties; look for N on the label.
  • Rotate susceptible crops, or move the garden.
  • Solarize the bed: clear plastic over moist, tilled soil for 6 weeks or more in summer.
  • Grow French marigolds as a cover in infested beds.

Organic options

  • Pull and remove roots after harvest.
  • Keep an infested bed bare and tilled through the summer.

Conventional options

  • None for home gardens; nematicides are for commercial applicators.
A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A corn earworm caterpillar feeding at the tip of an ear of corn
Photo: USDA Agricultural Research Service, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Corn earwormPest

What you'll see: Caterpillars feed in the tip of the ear under the husk, leaving moist droppings. On okra they bore into the pods.

Prevent

  • Check ears from when the silks appear.
  • Cut away the damaged tip; the rest of the ear is fine to eat.

Organic options

  • Mineral oil on the silks just inside each ear, a few days after the silks appear. For organic growing, use an OMRI Listed narrow-range oil.
  • Spinosad on the silks as eggs hatch. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: spinosad and oil on the silks are the home-garden picks.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A brown marmorated stink bug on a leaf
Photo: “Halyomorpha halys” by Gilles San Martin from Namur, Belgium, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Stink bugsPest

What you'll see: Shield-shaped green or brown bugs pierce pods and seeds. Okra pods curl and twist, and okra, lima bean and soybean seeds shrivel.

Prevent

  • Keep weeds near the garden cut low, and clear debris where adults spend the winter.
  • Check plants often and act early; numbers climb in late summer.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick bugs and crush the barrel-shaped egg clusters. There are no good organic sprays.

Conventional options

  • Permethrin or zeta-cypermethrin, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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