A bushy oregano plant with small round leaves in a garden bed
How to grow

Oregano

Takes a hard frost. A perennial for zones 4 to 8. Start indoors 6 to 10 weeks before your last frost; plant out up to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost. First harvest 56 to 90 days from planting.

Photo: “2018-04-10 Oregano plant, (Origanum vulgare), Northrepps, Cromer” by Kolforn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun to part shadeSome afternoon shade is fine
  • 10–18 in apart
  • 56–90 daysFrom planting out
  • pH 6.0–6.5Soil pH
  • HardyTakes a hard frost
  • Zones 4–8Comes back each year

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest oregano where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 3–4
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 6–10
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 8–12
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 14–22

How to plant and grow

  1. Start seed or cuttings

    Sow seed indoors 6 to 10 weeks before your last frost. Press it onto the mix without covering; it needs light. Seedlings vary, so cuttings from a tasty plant come truer.

  2. Plant after frost

    Set plants out or sow outdoors once frost danger has passed, in full sun or light shade and well-drained soil. Space plants 10 to 18 inches apart.

  3. Go easy on water

    Water in long dry spells and let the surface dry between waterings. Wet, heavy soil leads to root rot, and rich soil or extra fertilizer dulls the flavor.

  4. Harvest before bloom

    Once plants are established, snip stem tips as needed. Take the biggest cuttings just before flowering, when flavor peaks, and leave several leaf pairs.

  5. Mulch for winter

    After the soil freezes, cover plants lightly with straw or evergreen boughs. Pull it back when growth starts in spring.

  6. Renew old plants

    Plants turn woody and sparse after a few years. Divide or replant them every three to four years.

Common problems

Root rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants yellow, wilt and die back even though the soil is wet. Roots are brown, soft and few, and bean seedlings may rot at the soil line.

Prevent

  • Plant in well-drained soil; grow raspberries on beds raised about a foot.
  • Do not overwater.
  • Plant beans and peas in a new spot each year, and sow them only once the soil has warmed.
  • Start with healthy plants, and do not move soil from a sick bed to a healthy one.

Organic options

  • Remove and dispose of dying plants and clear crop debris after harvest.

Conventional options

  • None. Fungicides have not proven effective in home gardens; drainage is the fix.
A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A grey field slug crawling on rotten wood
Photo: “Deroceras reticulatum” by Bruce Marlin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

SlugsPest

What you'll see: Ragged holes in leaves and fruit, and shiny slime trails, mostly after damp nights.

Prevent

  • Clear mulch and leaf litter close to plants so the ground can dry.
  • Start early; do not wait for a heavy infestation.

Organic options

  • Sink shallow containers of beer to the rim; empty and refill them often.
  • Iron phosphate bait scattered on the soil around plants. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: iron phosphate bait is the pick for food gardens, being far less harmful to pets and wildlife.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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