Climbing bean vines growing up tall poles in a hillside field
How to grow

Pole beans

Frost-tender. Sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost. First harvest 60 to 70 days from sowing.

Photo: “Climbing Beans near Sipi Falls – Growth on the Highlands 001” by Ssemmanda will, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 4–8 in apartRows 18–36 in
  • 60–70 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 60 °F +pH 5.8–7.0
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • Frost-tenderKilled at 32 °F

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest pole beans where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. VinesRunners spread outWeek 3–5
  4. FlowersFlowers openWeek 6–8
  5. PodsPods fill outWeek 7–9
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 9–10

How to plant and grow

  1. Set up supports

    Put up a sturdy trellis, fence or pole teepee 6 to 8 feet tall before sowing, so roots are not disturbed later.

  2. Wait for warm soil

    Sow after the last frost once soil is 60 °F or warmer. Seed in cold soil often rots.

  3. Sow at the base

    Plant seeds 1 inch deep, about 4 inches apart along a trellis, or 5 or 6 seeds in a ring around each pole.

  4. Guide the vines

    Wind young vines onto the support if they wander. Keep weeds down while plants are small.

  5. Water steadily

    Aim for about 1 inch of water a week, more on sandy soil. Moisture matters most during flowering and pod fill.

  6. Pick all summer

    Pole beans keep flowering, so pick young pods every few days. Regular picking keeps the harvest going for 5 to 6 weeks or until frost.

Common problems

A Mexican bean beetle on a bean leaf it has skeletonised
Photo: Stephen Ausmus, USDA ARS, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Mexican bean beetlePest

What you'll see: Copper-colored beetles with black spots and spiny yellow larvae feed under bean leaves, leaving lacy skeletons.

Prevent

  • Use row cover on beans.
  • Remove bean plants right after harvest.
  • Reflective or white plastic mulch lowers beetle numbers.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick beetles, and crush yellow egg clusters and larvae.
  • Release the parasitic wasp Pediobius foveolatus when eggs start to hatch.
  • Kaolin clay on young plants deters feeding.

Conventional options

  • Several garden insecticides are labeled for beans; check the label lists Mexican bean beetle.
A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Bean leaves dusted with rust pustules
Photo: “Uromyces appendiculatus a1 (1)” by Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Bean rustDisease

What you'll see: Small rusty-brown, powdery bumps on leaf undersides, often ringed in yellow. Badly hit leaves dry up and fall.

Prevent

  • Plant beans in a new spot each year.
  • Water at the base; splashing water spreads the spores.
  • Clear bean plants after harvest and do not compost diseased ones.
  • Grow resistant varieties where offered.

Organic options

  • Sulfur, started when spots first appear. Do not use it close in time to an oil spray.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or myclobutanil, if beans are on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Root rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants yellow, wilt and die back even though the soil is wet. Roots are brown, soft and few, and bean seedlings may rot at the soil line.

Prevent

  • Plant in well-drained soil; grow raspberries on beds raised about a foot.
  • Do not overwater.
  • Plant beans and peas in a new spot each year, and sow them only once the soil has warmed.
  • Start with healthy plants, and do not move soil from a sick bed to a healthy one.

Organic options

  • Remove and dispose of dying plants and clear crop debris after harvest.

Conventional options

  • None. Fungicides have not proven effective in home gardens; drainage is the fix.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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