A harvester lifting potatoes from a field into a trailer
How to grow

Potatoes

Takes a light frost. Plant out 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost. First harvest 100 to 120 days from planting.

Photo: “Potato Harvest near Worlaby - geograph.org.uk - 4204414” by David Wright, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 8–12 in apartRows 30–36 in
  • 100–120 daysFrom planting out
  • Soil 50 °F +pH 5.8–6.5
  • 1–2 in a weekEven watering
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest potatoes where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. PlantSet in the groundWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 2–4
  3. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 4–6
  4. FlowersFlowers openWeek 6–8
  5. Tubers bulkTubers fill outWeek 7–10
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 14–17

How to plant and grow

  1. Prepare seed pieces

    Use certified seed potatoes, not store potatoes. Cut large ones into chunks with at least one eye each and let the cuts dry for a day or two.

  2. Plant in cool soil

    Plant 2 to 3 weeks before last frost once soil reaches about 50 °F. Set pieces cut side down, 3 to 5 inches deep.

  3. Space the rows

    Place pieces 8 to 12 inches apart in rows 30 to 36 inches apart. Wider spacing gives room to hill.

  4. Hill the plants

    When stems reach about a foot, pull soil up around them. Repeat once or twice, building 6 to 8 inches of soil to keep tubers from turning green.

  5. Water evenly

    Give 1 to 2 inches a week, most of all at bloom. Uneven watering can cause hollow or knobby tubers.

  6. Harvest

    Dig small new potatoes about 7 to 8 weeks after planting. For storage, wait until vines die back, then dig about 2 weeks later and cure.

Common problems

A red-orange Colorado potato beetle larva feeding on a potato leaf
Photo: “Colorado potato beetle larva (Leptinotarsa decemlineata)” by Tavo Romann, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Colorado potato beetlePest

What you'll see: Yellow-and-black striped beetles and humped red-orange larvae strip potato and eggplant leaves. Orange egg clusters sit under the leaves.

Prevent

  • Plant potatoes and eggplant as far from last year's spot as you can.
  • Check under leaves and crush egg clusters.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick beetles and larvae into soapy water.
  • Spinosad, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis tenebrionis) or neem on young larvae. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Permethrin or esfenvalerate, if the crop is on the label. Beetles resist many garden insecticides, so switch types if one fails.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A potato tuber with a rough, corky scab lesion
Photo: “Aardappelschurft (Streptomyces scabies on potato)” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Potato scabDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Rough, corky spots on the potato skin, either raised or pitted.

Prevent

  • Keep soil evenly moist for several weeks as tubers start to form.
  • Do not lime the potato bed; scab is worse in less acid soil.
  • Plant certified scab-free seed potatoes and resistant varieties.
  • Grow potatoes in a different bed for 3 to 4 years, and not after beets or carrots.

Organic options

  • Even moisture and acid soil are the controls.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray controls scab in a garden.
A tomato leaf blotched with dark early blight target spots and yellowing
Photo: “Alternaria solani a1 (2)” by Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Early blightDisease

What you'll see: Brown spots with rings like a target and a yellow edge show on the lowest leaves first. Leaves yellow and drop from the bottom up.

Prevent

  • Rotate: no tomatoes, tomatillos, potatoes, peppers or eggplant in that bed for 2 years or more.
  • Mulch so soil does not splash onto leaves.
  • Stake and space plants, and water at the base.
  • Grow resistant varieties.

Organic options

  • Pick off spotted leaves early, never more than a third of the plant, and bin them.
  • Copper fungicide, from the first spots. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or mancozeb, from the first spots, if the crop is on the label; tomato labels do not cover tomatillos. Most home plants still yield well.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Potato leaves with dark late blight lesions
Photo: “Phytophthora infestans potato Parel, aardappelziekte Parel” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Late blightDisease

What you'll see: Large, dark, greasy-looking blotches on leaves and stems spread fast in cool, wet weather, with white mold beneath. Fruit and tubers rot.

Prevent

  • Do not plant where tomatoes, tomatillos, potatoes, peppers or eggplant grew in the last 3 to 4 years.
  • Plant certified seed potatoes and pull volunteer potatoes.
  • Keep leaves dry: water at the base in the morning and space plants.
  • Grow resistant varieties.

Organic options

  • Pull and bag infected plants at once; do not compost them.
  • Copper fungicide, before infection, when late blight is reported nearby. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil or mancozeb, before infection, if the crop is on the label; tomato labels do not cover tomatillos. Sprays protect leaves; they do not cure.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A shiny, segmented wireworm larva on soil
Photo: “Wireworm - Flickr - treegrow (1)” by Katja Schulz from Washington, D. C., USA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

WirewormsPestSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Thin, shiny, yellow-brown larvae bore narrow holes into potatoes, roots and seeds. Seedlings may wilt.

Prevent

  • Expect them in beds newly made from lawn or sod.
  • Bury chunks of potato as bait, dig them up after about a week, and destroy the larvae.
  • Rotate crops.

Organic options

  • Bait with potato or carrot pieces, and check and destroy the catch often.

Conventional options

  • Insecticides worked into the soil before planting are an option only where wireworms have been a serious problem; most are farm products.

Hollow heartGrowing problemNo spray helps

What you'll see: A hollow, star- or lens-shaped hole in the center of large tubers, sometimes lined in brown.

Prevent

  • Keep soil moisture even, so tuber growth does not stall and then surge.
  • Avoid very wide spacing, which makes oversized, fast-growing tubers.
  • Do not overfeed with nitrogen early in the season.

Organic options

  • Even watering is the fix. Cut out the hollow.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray prevents it.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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