A large rhubarb plant with red stalks in a garden bed
How to grow

Rhubarb

Takes a hard frost. A perennial for zones 3 to 7. Plant out 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; plant in fall up to 6 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 1 to 2 years from planting.

Photo: “Hanbury Hall Gardens - rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)” by DeFacto, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 3 ft apartRows 3–4 ft
  • 1–2 yearsFrom planting out
  • 1 in a weekEven watering
  • HardyTakes a hard frost
  • Zones 3–7Comes back each year

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest rhubarb where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. PlantSet in the groundWeek 0
  2. EstablishRoots take holdWeek 2–6
  3. DormantRests over winterWeek 26–32
  4. Spring shootsNew shoots come upWeek 48–52
  5. HarvestReady to pickWeek 52–56
  6. Let growLeave the rest to growWeek 60–64

How to plant and grow

  1. Choose the spot

    Rhubarb stays for 15 years or more. Pick a sunny, well-drained spot out of the way of yearly tilling.

  2. Plant crowns

    Plant dormant crowns in early spring, or in early fall. Set buds no more than 1 to 2 inches below the surface.

  3. Give it room

    Allow about 3 feet by 3 feet for each plant. Feed with compost or balanced fertilizer each spring.

  4. Water and mulch

    Give about an inch of water a week. Mulch to hold moisture and keep weeds down, mainly in the first two years.

  5. Be patient

    Do not harvest the first year. Take only a few stalks the second year. Harvest fully from the third year.

  6. Pull, do not cut

    Pull stalks with a twist when 10 to 15 inches long. Take no more than half the stalks at once. Leaves are toxic.

  7. Remove seed stalks

    Cut off flower stalks as soon as they appear. Stop picking when new stalks come up thin, often by late June.

Common problems

A rhubarb curculio weevil dusted yellow on a leaf
Photo: “Lixus concavus P1140610a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Rhubarb curculioPestSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Holes and dark, oozing spots on rhubarb stalks, made by a long-snouted weevil dusted rusty yellow.

Prevent

  • Remove curly dock near the rhubarb; the weevil breeds in it.
  • Check plants in spring and early summer.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick weevils, holding a bucket under the leaf, since they drop when disturbed.

Conventional options

  • Not recommended. Hand-picking and dock removal control it.
A striped common stalk borer caterpillar on a plant stem
Photo: “Stalk Borer (Papaipema nebris)” by Andrew C, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Stalk borerPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: A shoot wilts and falls over, and a striped caterpillar with a purple band is boring inside the stalk.

Prevent

  • Keep weeds and tall grass mowed around the garden, especially in fall.
  • Remove and destroy wilted stalks.

Organic options

  • Cut out wilted stalks with the borer inside.

Conventional options

  • None. Sprays do not reach borers inside stalks.

Crown rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: The crown at the soil line turns brown and soft or dry. The plant yellows, wilts, or fails to come back in spring.

Prevent

  • Plant only in well-drained soil, or on raised beds or mounds.
  • Buy healthy, disease-free crowns.
  • Do not overwater, and keep water off the crown.

Organic options

  • Dig out and discard dead or dying crowns.
  • Fix drainage before replanting in the same spot.

Conventional options

  • None worth using at home. Fungicides do little once crowns rot.
Dark fungal leaf spots on the outer leaves of a cabbage head
Photo: “Alternaria brassicae (Berk.) Sacc. Symptoms on cabbage” by Agronom, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Leaf spotDisease

What you'll see: Round brown, tan or purple spots on leaves, sometimes with rings or a dark edge. The centers may drop out, leaving holes.

Prevent

  • Rotate crops, and clear spotted leaves and debris in fall.
  • Water at the base and space plants for air flow.
  • Buy clean seed and healthy plants.

Organic options

  • Pick off spotted leaves; a few spots do little harm.
  • Copper fungicide can protect new leaves. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil on cabbage-family crops, if labeled. Sprays are seldom needed in a home garden.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Root rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants yellow, wilt and die back even though the soil is wet. Roots are brown, soft and few, and bean seedlings may rot at the soil line.

Prevent

  • Plant in well-drained soil; grow raspberries on beds raised about a foot.
  • Do not overwater.
  • Plant beans and peas in a new spot each year, and sow them only once the soil has warmed.
  • Start with healthy plants, and do not move soil from a sick bed to a healthy one.

Organic options

  • Remove and dispose of dying plants and clear crop debris after harvest.

Conventional options

  • None. Fungicides have not proven effective in home gardens; drainage is the fix.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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