A rosemary shrub covered in small pale blue flowers
How to grow

Rosemary

Takes a light frost. A perennial for zones 8 to 10. Plant out up to 2 weeks after your last frost. First harvest 56 to 90 days from planting.

Photo: “Rosemary already in flower, Borde Hill Garden” by Michael Garlick, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 3–6 ft apart
  • 56–90 daysFrom planting out
  • pH 5.5–7.5Soil pH
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost
  • Zones 8–10Comes back each year

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest rosemary where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 0–1
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 1–2
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 2–3
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 4–6
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 8–12

How to plant and grow

  1. Start from cuttings

    Seed is very slow. Root 3 to 5 inch tip cuttings in late spring or summer; roots form in two to four weeks.

  2. Pick a sunny site

    Plant in full sun and well-drained soil after the last frost. Wet, heavy soil is the most common cause of loss.

  3. Water sparingly

    Let the soil dry somewhat between waterings. Overwatering leads to root rot.

  4. Harvest tips

    Snip stem tips and sprigs as needed through the season. Pruning keeps plants compact.

  5. Cold areas: use pots

    Below zone 8 rosemary rarely survives winter outside. Grow it in a pot, since garden plants transplant poorly.

  6. Overwinter indoors

    Bring pots in just before frost. Keep them cool and bright, around 50 to 60 °F, with soil on the dry side.

Common problems

A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

WhitefliesPest

What you'll see: Clouds of tiny white insects fly up when the plant is touched. Leaves yellow and may turn sticky.

Prevent

  • Inspect plants before you buy them.
  • Hang yellow sticky cards to watch numbers.
  • Avoid broad sprays that kill whitefly predators.

Organic options

  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides; it gives short-term control.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Whiteflies are hard to control with insecticides, and broad sprays kill their natural enemies.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Raspberries covered in fuzzy grey Botrytis mould
Photo: “Raspberry with grey mould (Botrytis cinerea)” by Schlaghecken Josef, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Botrytis gray moldDiseaseSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Soft brown rot covered in fuzzy gray mold on fruit, flowers or leaves, or small sunken brown or gray spots near the base of shallot bulbs. It is worst in cool, wet weather.

Prevent

  • Mulch strawberries with straw so fruit does not touch damp soil.
  • Space plants for air flow and water at the base in the morning.
  • Go easy on nitrogen in spring.
  • Pick ripe fruit often and remove rotting fruit and dead flowers.

Organic options

  • Remove moldy fruit and plant parts. Organic sprays have little proof of working, so rely on the steps above.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. In home gardens the steps above work best; fungicides are mainly for commercial growers.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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