A grey-green culinary sage leaf held between two fingers
How to grow

Sage

Takes a hard frost. A perennial for zones 4 to 8. Start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost; plant out up to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost. First harvest 75 days from planting.

Photo: “Sage (Salvia officinalis)” by Mokkie, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun to part shadeSome afternoon shade is fine
  • 18–24 in apart
  • 75 daysFrom planting out
  • pH 6.0–8.0Soil pH
  • HardyTakes a hard frost
  • Zones 4–8Comes back each year

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest sage where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–3
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 3–5
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 6–10
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 8–12
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 16–20

How to plant and grow

  1. Start seed indoors

    Sow seed 6 to 8 weeks before your average last frost, or sow outdoors around that date. Cuttings and layered stems give a quicker start.

  2. Plant in full sun

    Set plants out after frost danger passes, 18 to 24 inches apart, in full sun and very well-drained soil. Light afternoon shade is fine.

  3. Water with care

    Sage takes drought but grows better with steady moisture. Never let the soil stay soggy, since wet roots rot.

  4. Start picking

    Begin picking leaves about 75 days after planting. Never take more than half the plant at one time.

  5. Cut before bloom

    For the best flavor, cut 6 to 8 inches off the tops before the plants flower, at least twice a season.

  6. Replace woody plants

    Plants get woody and less productive after three to five years. Root cuttings or layer a stem to raise replacements.

Common problems

Root rotDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Plants yellow, wilt and die back even though the soil is wet. Roots are brown, soft and few, and bean seedlings may rot at the soil line.

Prevent

  • Plant in well-drained soil; grow raspberries on beds raised about a foot.
  • Do not overwater.
  • Plant beans and peas in a new spot each year, and sow them only once the soil has warmed.
  • Start with healthy plants, and do not move soil from a sick bed to a healthy one.

Organic options

  • Remove and dispose of dying plants and clear crop debris after harvest.

Conventional options

  • None. Fungicides have not proven effective in home gardens; drainage is the fix.
Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A grey field slug crawling on rotten wood
Photo: “Deroceras reticulatum” by Bruce Marlin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

SlugsPest

What you'll see: Ragged holes in leaves and fruit, and shiny slime trails, mostly after damp nights.

Prevent

  • Clear mulch and leaf litter close to plants so the ground can dry.
  • Start early; do not wait for a heavy infestation.

Organic options

  • Sink shallow containers of beer to the rim; empty and refill them often.
  • Iron phosphate bait scattered on the soil around plants. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: iron phosphate bait is the pick for food gardens, being far less harmful to pets and wildlife.
A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

An eggplant with yellowing, wilting leaves from Verticillium wilt
Photo: “Auberginen Verticillium-1-Josef Schlaghecken” by Schlaghecken Josef, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped).

Verticillium wiltDiseaseNo spray helps

What you'll see: Lower leaves yellow at the edges, wilt and die, often on one side, and the plant slowly declines. A cut stem shows brown streaks.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties; look for V on the label.
  • Rotate away from tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant for several years.
  • Keep weeds down; many weeds carry it.
  • Bin infected plants; do not compost them.

Organic options

  • Pull infected plants. Early-maturing varieties may still give a crop.

Conventional options

  • None. Infected plants cannot be cured.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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