Rainbow Swiss chard with red and yellow stems in a vegetable garden
How to grow

Swiss chard

Takes a light frost. Sow outdoors 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow in fall 6 to 13 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 40 to 60 days from sowing.

Photo: “Swiss chard in the vegetable garden - geograph.org.uk - 3611950” by Barbara Carr, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 6–9 in apartRows 12–36 in
  • 40–60 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 40 °F +pH 6.0–7.0
  • 1–2 in a weekEven watering
  • Half-hardyTakes a light frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest swiss chard where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 2–3
  4. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 3–4
  5. Leaf growthLeaves fill outWeek 4–5
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 6–9

How to plant and grow

  1. Sow outdoors

    Sow seed 1/2 inch deep 2 to 4 weeks before last frost, once soil is about 40 °F. Seedlings show up in 1 to 2 weeks.

  2. Thin the row

    Each seed is a cluster that can sprout several plants. Thin to about 6 to 9 inches apart when seedlings have a few leaves.

  3. Water evenly

    Give 1 to 2 inches a week. Dry spells make the leaves tough.

  4. Watch the leaves

    Check for aphids, slugs and leaf spots. Rotate where you plant chard and beets each year.

  5. Cut and come again

    Pick outer leaves 4 to 12 inches long and let the center keep growing. One planting can keep producing until it flowers.

  6. Sow for fall

    Sow again in midsummer, about 6 to 13 weeks before first fall frost. Chard handles light frost.

Common problems

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A grey field slug crawling on rotten wood
Photo: “Deroceras reticulatum” by Bruce Marlin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

SlugsPest

What you'll see: Ragged holes in leaves and fruit, and shiny slime trails, mostly after damp nights.

Prevent

  • Clear mulch and leaf litter close to plants so the ground can dry.
  • Start early; do not wait for a heavy infestation.

Organic options

  • Sink shallow containers of beer to the rim; empty and refill them often.
  • Iron phosphate bait scattered on the soil around plants. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: iron phosphate bait is the pick for food gardens, being far less harmful to pets and wildlife.
A striped flea beetle on the edge of a leaf
Photo: “Phyllotreta striolata P1210443a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Flea beetlesPest

What you'll see: Many tiny round holes and pits in leaves, as if hit by buckshot. Tiny dark beetles jump when disturbed.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges.
  • Plant a little later, so warm weather carries plants through the damage.
  • Sow radish ahead of the main crop as a trap crop.
  • Clear weeds and old crop debris.

Organic options

  • Spinosad, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Carbaryl, malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. Older plants seldom need treatment.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A beet leaf with round, tan Cercospora leaf spots ringed in red
Photo: “Cercospora beticola spot on sugar beet leaf 2” by Ayman Esh, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Cercospora leaf spotDiseaseSprays are rarely needed

What you'll see: Small round tan spots with purple-red edges on beet and chard leaves. The centers may fall out, leaving holes.

Prevent

  • Keep beets, chard and spinach out of a bed for 3 years.
  • Remove all leaves and debris at the end of the season.
  • Water at the base and space plants for air flow.

Organic options

  • Pick off spotted leaves; new leaves grow from the center.
  • Pull up and hot-compost badly infected plants.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Leaf picking, clean-up and rotation control it in a home garden.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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