Purple-top turnips freshly pulled, with their green leaves
How to grow

Turnips

Takes a hard frost. Sow outdoors 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost; sow in fall 8 to 9 weeks before your first fall frost. First harvest 50 to 80 days from sowing.

Photo: “Brassica rapa turnip” by Peter Presslein, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 2–6 in apartRows 12–30 in
  • 50–80 daysFrom sowing
  • Soil 40 °F +pH 6.0–7.5
  • 1–2 in a weekEven watering
  • HardyTakes a hard frost

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest turnips where you live, from your own frost dates.

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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1–2
  3. True leavesFirst real leavesWeek 2–3
  4. ThinThin to final spacingWeek 3–4
  5. Root swellsRoots thickenWeek 4–6
  6. HarvestReady to pickWeek 7–11

How to plant and grow

  1. Sow early

    Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost, once the soil is about 40 °F. Turnips do not need to be started indoors.

  2. Thin the row

    Thin seedlings to 2 to 6 inches apart, in rows 12 to 30 inches apart. Crowded plants make leaves instead of roots.

  3. Water evenly

    Give 1 to 2 inches of water a week, more in sandy soil. Turnips grow best in cool weather, at or below 85 °F.

  4. Sow every month

    Sow a short row about every four weeks in spring for a steady supply. Stop when summer heat sets in.

  5. Sow for fall

    Sow again 8 to 9 weeks before first fall frost. Turnips take frost well, and cool fall weather gives sweet, crisp roots.

  6. Cover young plants

    Row cover over seedlings keeps flea beetles and root maggot flies off. Move cabbage-family crops to a new bed each year.

  7. Pull at 2 to 3 inches

    Harvest roots at about 2 to 3 inches across, before they turn woody. Young leaves can be picked as greens.

Common problems

A striped flea beetle on the edge of a leaf
Photo: “Phyllotreta striolata P1210443a” by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Flea beetlesPest

What you'll see: Many tiny round holes and pits in leaves, as if hit by buckshot. Tiny dark beetles jump when disturbed.

Prevent

  • Cover seedlings with row cover and seal the edges.
  • Plant a little later, so warm weather carries plants through the damage.
  • Sow radish ahead of the main crop as a trap crop.
  • Clear weeds and old crop debris.

Organic options

  • Spinosad, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Carbaryl, malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. Older plants seldom need treatment.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A white cabbage maggot burrowing into a brassica stem at soil level
Photo: “Delia radicum, koolvlieg made” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Cabbage maggotPestNo spray helps

What you'll see: Small white maggots tunnel into radish and cabbage-family roots. Plants wilt, and roots are scarred or rotten.

Prevent

  • Cover seeded rows with row cover right after sowing, and bury the edges.
  • Do not cover ground that grew cabbage-family crops last year; flies can hatch under the cover.
  • Move cabbage-family crops to a new bed each year.

Organic options

  • Row cover is the main control. Pull and destroy infested plants.

Conventional options

  • None. No insecticide is labeled for cabbage maggot in home gardens.
A velvety green imported cabbageworm caterpillar on a leaf
Photo: “Pieris rapae - larva 01 (HS)” by Harald Süpfle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Imported cabbagewormPest

What you'll see: Velvety green caterpillars chew holes in leaves and bore into heads, leaving dark green droppings. White butterflies flutter over the bed.

Prevent

  • Cover plants with row cover from planting.
  • Check leaves each week and pick off caterpillars.

Organic options

  • Hand-pick caterpillars.
  • Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki) or spinosad on young caterpillars. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic: Bt and spinosad are the usual choices.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A cabbage leaf with a yellow-brown V-shaped black rot lesion at its edge
Photo: Scot Nelson, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Black rotDisease

What you'll see: On cabbage-family crops, yellow V-shaped patches grow in from the leaf edges and the veins turn black. On sweet potatoes, firm, dark, sunken patches form on the roots, often found in storage.

Prevent

  • For cabbage-family crops, use certified or hot-water-treated seed and healthy transplants.
  • Keep cabbage-family crops out of a bed for 2 to 3 years, and control weeds.
  • For sweet potatoes, grow slips only from clean roots and cure the roots before storing.

Organic options

  • Pull and destroy infected plants and roots.
  • On cabbage-family crops, copper may slow spread while disease is light. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • None. No spray cures black rot, and none helps stored sweet potatoes.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Dark fungal leaf spots on the outer leaves of a cabbage head
Photo: “Alternaria brassicae (Berk.) Sacc. Symptoms on cabbage” by Agronom, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Leaf spotDisease

What you'll see: Round brown, tan or purple spots on leaves, sometimes with rings or a dark edge. The centers may drop out, leaving holes.

Prevent

  • Rotate crops, and clear spotted leaves and debris in fall.
  • Water at the base and space plants for air flow.
  • Buy clean seed and healthy plants.

Organic options

  • Pick off spotted leaves; a few spots do little harm.
  • Copper fungicide can protect new leaves. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil on cabbage-family crops, if labeled. Sprays are seldom needed in a home garden.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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