A coral-pink zinnia flower in bloom
How to grow

Zinnias

Frost-tender. Start indoors 4 weeks before your last frost; plant out 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost; sow outdoors up to 2 weeks after your last frost. First blooms 58 to 100 days from sowing.

Photo: “Zinnia Elegans JNTBGRI 3” by Shishirdasika, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

  • Full sun6–8 hours or more
  • 6–12 in apartRows 12–24 in
  • 58–100 daysTo first bloom
  • 1–1½ in a weekEven watering
  • Frost-tenderKilled at 32 °F

Your dates

Put in your ZIP code to see when to start, plant and harvest zinnias where you live, from your own frost dates.

Look up the frost dates for this ZIP code
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From seed to harvest

  1. SowSeed goes inWeek 0
  2. SproutFirst shoots showWeek 1
  3. Thin or plant outGive each plant roomWeek 2–4
  4. BudsFlower buds showWeek 6–9
  5. BloomIn full flowerWeek 8–13
  6. Keep cuttingCut often for moreWeek 8–14

How to plant and grow

  1. Wait for warm soil

    Zinnias are killed by frost. Sow outdoors after the last frost, 2 to 3 seeds per foot, covered lightly. Keep the surface moist until seedlings come up.

  2. Or start indoors

    For earlier flowers, sow 1 to 2 seeds per cell about four weeks before the last frost. Do not let plants get root bound. Harden off before planting out.

  3. Thin for air flow

    Thin to 9 to 12 inches apart after the first true leaves. Big varieties need the wider spacing. Good air flow helps prevent powdery mildew.

  4. Pinch for stems

    When plants are 8 to 12 inches tall, pinch out the top 3 to 4 inches. This forces side shoots and longer stems for cutting.

  5. Water at the base

    Water often while young, then about once a week with 1 to 1.5 inches. Water early in the day and keep leaves dry.

  6. Cut often

    Cut in the cool of the day when blooms are nearly open and the stem is stiff. Regular cutting and deadheading keep plants blooming until frost.

Common problems

A squash leaf coated with white powdery mildew
Photo: “Powdery mildew 9” by Dmitry Brant, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Powdery mildewDisease

What you'll see: White, powdery patches on the tops of leaves and on stems. Leaves yellow and dry, and fruit may ripen poorly.

Prevent

  • Grow resistant varieties.
  • Give plants sun and space for air flow.
  • Remove badly infected leaves, and clear debris after harvest.

Organic options

  • Sulfur or potassium bicarbonate, from the first spots. Sulfur can burn some vine crops in heat, and never use it near an oil spray.
  • Neem oil. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Myclobutanil or propiconazole, if the crop is on the label.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Dark fungal leaf spots on the outer leaves of a cabbage head
Photo: “Alternaria brassicae (Berk.) Sacc. Symptoms on cabbage” by Agronom, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Leaf spotDisease

What you'll see: Round brown, tan or purple spots on leaves, sometimes with rings or a dark edge. The centers may drop out, leaving holes.

Prevent

  • Rotate crops, and clear spotted leaves and debris in fall.
  • Water at the base and space plants for air flow.
  • Buy clean seed and healthy plants.

Organic options

  • Pick off spotted leaves; a few spots do little harm.
  • Copper fungicide can protect new leaves. Look for OMRI Listed products.

Conventional options

  • Chlorothalonil on cabbage-family crops, if labeled. Sprays are seldom needed in a home garden.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Spider mites and their fine webbing on a pepper plant
Photo: “Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika” by Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

Spider mitesPest

What you'll see: Fine yellow speckles on leaves, then bronzing and fine webbing. Moving specks of dust under the leaves are the mites.

Prevent

  • Keep plants watered; drought-stressed plants suffer most.
  • Damp down dusty paths and use mulch.
  • Avoid broad insecticides; they kill mite predators and can start an outbreak.

Organic options

  • Hose leaf undersides hard, often.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Release predatory mites once pest mites are present.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic. Broad insecticides often make mites worse.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A dense colony of grey aphids on a kale leaf
Photo: “Aphids on Kale leaf” by Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

AphidsPest

What you'll see: Clusters of small, soft-bodied green, black or gray insects on new shoots and under leaves. Leaves curl, and a sticky film may coat them.

Prevent

  • Check leaf undersides each week; a few aphids do little harm.
  • Pull nearby weeds, such as wild mustards, that feed aphids.
  • Grow flowers for lady beetles, lacewings and hover flies, and avoid broad sprays that kill them.

Organic options

  • Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water.
  • Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on leaf undersides, repeated as the label allows.
  • Neem oil, or OMRI Listed pyrethrins (without piperonyl butoxide).

Conventional options

  • Malathion or permethrin, if the crop is on the label. These also kill the insects that eat aphids.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

A western flower thrips on a flower, magnified
Photo: “Frankliniella occidentalis 7798” by Dave Kirkeby, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (cropped). The cropped version is shared under the same licence.

ThripsPest

What you'll see: Flowers and leaves are streaked, flecked or misshapen. Tiny, slender insects hide in the blooms.

Prevent

  • Remove spent flowers and bag them.
  • Encourage lacewings and minute pirate bugs, which eat thrips.
  • Thrips seldom need control in a home garden.

Organic options

  • Insecticidal soap, neem or horticultural oil, aimed at leaf undersides and blooms.

Conventional options

  • Same as organic for a flower bed.

Bee caution: Don't spray open flowers. Spray in the late evening, when bees aren't flying.

Read and follow the product label: it is the law. It sets the rate, the crops it is for, and the days between spraying and picking. Products registered vary by state; for organic growing, look for products allowed under the USDA National Organic Program (OMRI Listed). We name active ingredients, not brands or rates.

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Sources

Planting dates and growing facts checked against these university extension and USDA pages:

Growth-stage drawings: TallyTill.

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